June,  2017

Gabriele MentgesLola Shamukhitdinova (Hrsg.)

Textiles as National Heritage: Identities, Politics and Material Culture

2017,  322  Seiten,  gebunden,  with numerous illustrations,   ISBN 978-3-8309-3609-1

Mit Beiträgen von
Susana AguirreLeyla Belkaïd-NeriMelanie KrebsGabriele MentgesGaini MukhtarovaBinafsha NodirLola ShamukhitdinovaGulnar SoltanbayevaArdak YussupovaZhazira Zhukenova


The edited volume discusses the role of textile heritage in relation to the dynamics of nation building, cultural identity, politics, economy and the globalization of markets. It was sparked by a research project investigating the role of textiles, textile design and contemporary fashion in the post-Soviet societies of Central Asia and also includes perspectives on similar developments in Algeria and Peru in order to question dichotomous narrations of modernity relations between textile cultures and heritage building, cultural property, and the concept of cultural heritage. Thus, this book intends to stimulate the ongoing debate about textile culture as national heritage or as means of nation branding.


June, 2016

January, 2016

December, 2015

We are happy to inform you that the second book of the Project is already here!


Алимова, Халимахон,  Ментгес, Габриеле, Шамухитдинова, Лола

Перспективы узбекской текстильной культуры: традиции и инновации. - Ташкент, "O'ZBEKISTON" 2015. - 200c.

ISBN 978-9943-28-349-7

December, 2015

March, 2015

Visit of Uzbek delegation to TU Dortmund

From March 23rd till March 30th, in the framework of the Project the delegation from 4 Uzbek universities has visited TU Dortmund.

The program of the visit included meeting and acquaintance with the Hohenstein Institute, which carries out testing, certification and researchin the field of textiles, a round table in ZHD  (Technische Universität Dortmund) about actual quality management, a discussion in Institute of Art and Material Culture.

December,  2014

Uzbek fashion design and textile traditions: Wedding attire

Exhibition in the institute of Art and Material Culture


The collection shown here reflects on old wedding ritual, but proposes a modernized version which respects the ritual by the use of traditional fabrics and motifs as well as

modern needs and conceptions of fashion. It also gives an impression of contemporary Uzbek fashion design which tries to revitalize traditional textile culture in Central Asia.

It was devised by Taisiya Chursina together with members of the project.

September, 2014

Visit to Uzbekistan September 18 – October 9, 2014

-    Summer school in Tashkent “Ways of making Textile Industry sustainable. Project related scientific methods.(September 29 – October 3, 2014)

-    Field investigations in Margilan:

    „Edgorlik” Ikat handicraft factory, ikat production in Fazlitdin Dadajanov`s workshop , “Faiz“  market, Center of Handicrafts, hand workshop of furnaces


-   Meeting with the administration of the State museum of History of Uzbekistan

-  Organization of the Fashion show of the collection of the Project and historical Costume objects in the State Museum of History of Uzbekistan

-   Meeting in the editorial department of the „SANAT” magazine edition

-  Field  investigations: Handicrafts Fairy, Jangiabod Market in Tashkent suburbs, visit of textile interior Salon, Field trip to the museum of the Victims of political Repressions in Tashkent, Study trip to the Museum of applied arts, exhibition „Tubeteika“

-   work meetings with Uzbek colleagues

-   Visit to Republic International Cultural Center in Tashkent. Meeting in German Cultural Center  

 September  26,  2014

Fashion Show  in the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan

Meeting in the German Cultural Center

September, 2014

July -  August,  2014

    Preparation stage:


-     Preparations for Summer School 4

-     Organizing of the visit and project meeting in Uzbekistan


June, 2014

Small foyer exhibition »Suzane embroidery from Uzbekistan« at the Institute of Art and Material Culture of TU Dortmund


In the foyer of the Institute of Art and Material Culture of TU Dortmund an exhibition devoted to the art of susane embroidery from Uzbekistan is opened. The exhibition presents susane exhibits of  the Institute collection discovered during the field investigations in two regions of modern Uzbekistan:   Bukhara and Samarkand.


May,  2014

Visit to Istanbul


(Prof. G. Mentges, L. Shamukhitdinova, S. Adelt)


·        Investigation of the Grand Bazar in Istanbul concerning Uzbek textiles (location, organization, display, goods). 

·        Research in Bursa - the center of revitalized  silk industry in Turkey.

·        Investigation of the antique and collectors galleries of Uzbek textiles and ethnic textile shops.

·        Research on the textile patterns connected with Central Asian Ikat (for IKAT data  base) and their imitations.

·        Display of the textile heritage in Turkish Museums.




April, 2014

March, 2014

Visit to Uzbekistan March 6-27, 2014

-          Summer school in Bukhara “Display of textile heritage (on the example of Uzbek Ikat). Presentation and visualization in High Education” (March 10-14, 2014)

-          Acquaintance with Uzbek National Academic Dramatic Theatre. Performance “Excellent Bride”

-          Visit to Performance devoted to Navruz (poetess Farida Afruz)

-          Visit to kishlak Kolon – visit to the family and makhalla famous for producing gold embroidery textiles

-          Visit to Bukhara, Samarkand, Urgut, Shahrisabs,Tashkent, Kibrai (Tashkent district).

-          Lection in Fashion Theory “Youth Cultures” by Prof. Dr. G. Mentges (TITLI, March 19, 2014, NIAD named after K. Bekhzod March 25, 2014)

-          Lection “Uzbek Ikat: From Tradition to Modernity” Dr. L. Shamukhitdinova (TITLI, March 19, 2014, NIAD named after K. Bekhzod March 25, 2014)

-          Visit to Republic International Cultural Center in Tashkent. Meeting in German Cultural Center (March 21, 2014)

-          Visit to Art-Basar (TURKESTIN Palace, March 21, 2014)

-          Meetings with Uzbek designers (Fatima Gulyamova, Samarkand), Saodat Muratkhojaeva in her workshop (Tashkent), Olga and Darja Massalskaja (Tashkent), Irina Sharipova (Bukhara), Ilkhom Bobomuradov (Ceramics) in Samarkand

-          Visit to the handicraft factory producing “silk paper” (Samarkand), meeting the Designers Zarif and Sanjar Mukhtarov

-          Participation in traditional Navruz activities in Kibrai

-          Meeting with Prof. Dr. Z. I. Rahimova – specialist in museology

-          Visit to Goethe–Institute in Tashkent. Meeting with director Julia Hanske.

October, 2013




Visit to Uzbekistan 18.-28.10.2013

Kick-off meeting of the Project/Workshop

Participation in:

      -The  9th international Uzbek Cotton and Textile Fair: conference, exhibition, industrial fashion show (16.-17.10.2013)

      - International scientific conference “Design – the sphere uniting cultures” in National institute of Art and Design under the name of K.Behzod (17.10.2013)

   Field investigation in different regions (Tashkent and Tashkent district, Bukhara and

   Bukhara district, Samarkand):

-       Meeting  with the administration of Bukhara engineer-technological institute (21.10.2013)

-       Visit to gold embroidery factory “Zarduz” in Bukhara (22.10.2013)

-       Meeting with a family running a small business in embroidery (Bukhara/22.10.2013)

-       Field investigation on the textiles section in Karvon basar in Bukhara (22.10.2013)

-       Investigation on the development of folklore handicraft touristic market in Old Bukhara

-       Visit to the traditional carpet factory in Samarkand (23.10.2013)

-       Field investigation on modernity of traditional design in Samarkand touristic market: new Uzbek design brands (23.10.2013)

-       Visit to the knitting factory in Tashkent district (Chirchik) (19.10.2013)

-       Visit to the “salom kelin” wedding ritual festivity in Tashkent (15.10.2013)

-       Visit to the wedding salon in Tashkent (26.10.2013)

-       Participation in the Festival of National dress in the frame of “Style.uz” Art week in Tashkent (26.10.2013)


Conference in National institute of Fine arts and design_ Agenda
Conference in National Institute of Fine
Adobe Acrobat Dokument 981.7 KB

August, 2013

Gabriele MentgesLola Shamukhitdinova (Hrsg.)
Unter Mitarbeit von Svenja AdeltClaire Wenngren
Übersetzt von Paul Kremel

Modernity of Tradition

Uzbek Textile Culture Today

2013,  192  Seiten,  gebunden,  mit zahlreichen, teils farbigen Abbildungen,  ISBN 978-3-8309-2906-2

zurück zur Übersicht

Usually, advertising formulas which fix Uzbekistan in a transfigured oriental past of long ago perfect for the travel industry, prefer to forget that there is also a modern Uzbekistan in which, as some researchers suggest, a new Silk Road is beginning to evolve.

The present volume intends to provide an initial insight into these evolving connections and processes, on the one hand to present the textile facets that they encompass and on the other hand to show how, from the perspective of Uzbek researchers, the problem and the current status of textile research and of textile revitalisation are developing.

Mit Beiträgen von

Ohunjon Ahunbabayev, Halimahan Alimova, Dilafruz Aripjanova, Ulugbek Bobatov, Irina Bogoslovskaya, Vera Chursina, Azamat Gulamov, Gabriele Mentges, Nargiza Nabidjanova, Sabokhat Pulatova, Nilufarhon Qobulova, Alisher Rahimov, Markus Rempe, Lola Shamukhitdinova, Abdurahmon Toychiyev, Gulam Valiyev.


Die gesamte Veröffentlichung in englischer Sprache ist für Kulturwissenschaftler, die sich neben der Technik, dem Design auch für die aktuelle Textilforschung in Usbekistan interessieren, eine wichtige aktuelle Informationsquelle.
Waltraud Rusch in: ...textil... 4/2013

Kulturwissenschaftlern, Textilfachleuten, Designerinnen und allen Berufsfeldern, welche an der aktuellen Textilforschung mit ihren vielfältigen Schnittstellen zwischen regionalen und globalen Entwicklungen interessiert sind, bietet die in englischer Sprache erschienene Publikation eine breit angelegte Untersuchung mit vielfältigen Informationen.
Bettina Köhler in: Bayerisches Jahrbuch für Volkskunde, 2015


August,  2013

We are happy to inform you that the book of the Project is already here!

July, 2013

Modernity of Tradition.pdf
Adobe Acrobat Dokument 369.1 KB

May – July,  2013



    Preparation stage:


-      Buying of scientific equipment

-      Preparations for Summer School 3

-      Organizing of the  visit and project meeting  in Uzbekistan


October, 2011

Uzbek Scientific Research Institute of Natural Fibers. Laboratory
Uzbek Scientific Research Institute of Natural Fibers. Laboratory

Visit to Uzbekistan


- Workshops with participants of the project

- Summer school 2 “Summer school on teaching methods: Green design” in Tashkent

- Field research in Uzbekistan (Tashkent, Samarqand, Bukhara, Andijan, Margilan, Namangan, Kasansay)


Kulturanalyse und Kulturvermittlung

Forschungskolloquium des Seminars für Kulturanthropologie des Textilen in Verbindung mit der Forschungsgruppe Dynamik der Geschlechterkonstellationen

Tu Dortmund, 18.00 Uhr ct ¦ Seminar für Kulturanthropologie des Textilen ¦ Emil-Figge-Str. 50 ¦ Raum 4.208




Gabriele Mentges, TU Dortmund Modernität der Tradition:

Lola Shamukhitdinova,TU Dortmund Materialität und usbekische


October, 2011


Summer School in Tashkent / Uzbekistan (October 10-14, 2011)


Title: “Summer School on Teaching Methods: Green Design”

18 participants from partner institutions in Uzbekistan:

• Tashkent Institute for Textile and Apparel Industry (TITLI)

• Andijan Machine-building Institute

• Bukhara Technological Institute of Food and Light Industry

• Uzbek National Institute of Art and Design named after K. Bekhzod (Tashkent)

• Research Institute of Natural Fibers (Margilan)



Prof. Gabriele Mentges

(TU Dortmund Institute of Art and Material Culture)

Dr. Lola Shamukhitdinova

(TU Dortmund Institute of Art and Material Culture)

Dr.Sigrid Dany

(TU Dortmund, zhb)

Prof. Dr. Bettina Köhler

(University of Applied Sciences Northwestern Switzerland, Academy of Art and Design, Institute Fashion Design)

Meeting in Rectorate
Meeting in Rectorate

July, 2011


Visit of Uzbek delegation to TUDo

From June 31st till July 11th, in the framework of the International Project “Modernity of tradition. Uzbek textile heritage as a cultural and economical recourse” the delegation from 4 Uzbek universities has visited TU Dortmund.

During the intensive program of the visit the members of the delegation have had a meeting and long discussion with Rector Prof. Ursula Gather, a round table in HDZ about actual teaching problems, a discussion in Media Center about e-learning and a visit to the ITMC.


Furthermore members of delegation made presentations in the Institute of Art and Material Culture, visited the AMD in Düsseldorf and the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA)  at RWTH Aachen University


October, 2010


Summer School in Bukhara 2010 – “Teaching via research”


15 participants from:

• Tashkent Institute for Textile and Apparel Industry (TITLI)

• Andijan Machine-building Institute

• Bukhara Technological Institute of Food and Light Industry

• Uzbek National Institute of Art and Design named after K. Bekhzod (Tashkent)


Prof. Gabriele Mentges

Dr. Sigrid Dany

Dr. Lola Shamukhitdinova

October, 2010

The travelling on the "Silk Road"
The travelling on the "Silk Road"

Visit to Uzbekistan / Field research



- Workshops with participants of the project 

- Summer school 1 “Teaching via research” in Bukhara

- Field research in Uzbekistan (Tashkent, Samarqand, Bukhara, Andijan, Margilan)

June, 2010

"Old Bukhara"
"Old Bukhara"

Visit to Uzbekistan


- Kick-off meeting of the Project

- workshop; round table: "Organization of the Summer Schools" (G.Mentges)

- training: “New digital technical instruments for designers – presentation of the

  ColorMunki from PANTONE” (L. Shamukhitdinova)

- field researches in Tashkent, Bukhara and Margilan

Project team

A.Gofurov, T.Chursina, A.Toychiyev, J.Bessas,V.Chursina,L.Shamukhitdinova, A.Egorkin, G. Valiev , G.Mentges, S.Dany, A.Rahimov, A.Ahunbabaev, H.Alimova, N.Kobulova, M.Temirova, S.Pulatova, D.Muhammedieva, E.Mustafina, R.Yusupova,Sh.Ilkhomov